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Mama's
Fish House I have heard it said that there is nothing new under the sun. I understand the sentiment, but...I am not sure I can believe it completely. Take buildings. They all share similar characteristics, height, weight, cost. They all must account for the same forces that affect all structures. Some are even very attractive making our lives more aesthetically pleasing. Then there are a few, a very few buildings that so far exceeds the sum of their characteristics that they undergo a metamorphosis from a utilitarian artifact to a representation of a higher, more universal purpose. No man that has ever seen the Taj Mahal has ever said this is just a building. The Taj Mahal transcends the sum of its parts and even it's purpose, to become a universal avatar of the depths of the love of one man for one woman and in doing this the Taj Mahal becomes unique and hence perpetually new. In a sense Mama's Fish House is in this class. It is a building and a restaurant but when I went there I had the absolutely best dining experience of my life without close competition. It may have been the most satisfying commercial experience I have ever had. The experience is even more congenial as I still savor it months after eating there. It is burned bright in my memory. Let us start with the setting. Mama’s is located in a lovely part of Maui, Hawaii on her own private, gorgeous, white sand and palm-lined beach overlooking beautiful blue water. A common hash house would be nicer in Maui. But the location of Mama's Fish House is exquisite, restful, one of the most pleasing locations for a restaurant I have ever seen. Inside it is open, quiet, understated but comfortably appointed. The staff is pleasant and well trained. They do everything that can be done to help you relax and to enjoy your meal. We started with appetizers of Guacamole with lobster, had Crab-cakes and finally Panko crusted calamari with wasabi butter. The lobster guacamole was superb. There was a bit of heat without being overwhelming and there was a generous amount of lobster. Anywhere else this would have been a spotlight appetizer. But then there was the He’e (Octopus) Carpaccio. Their octopus was hands down the best I have ever had anywhere. I am from the Chesapeake Bay and I knew good octopus. Mama's Fish House beat anything I have ever had. But then they added insult to injury by serving us crab-cakes that were better than any other crab-cakes I have had anywhere. The crab cakes were made with a lot of succulently prepared crabmeat with just enough filling to keep it together and to add flavor. It was garnished with a golden yellow flying fish roe. The roe was fresh and firm had the almost perfect balance of fishy, salty, and sweet. It did what remarkably few garnishes actually do; it was a great compliment to the sweet and savory crab cake. Before the dinner was served they brought out a tiny cup of Tomato Bisk with fresh ginger for us to try. It was a dish they were testing and would probably be going on the menue. It was outstanding. The tomatoes were grown locally. They brought out Honey Poppy Bread for dinner and it was great also. I had the Seared Deep water Ahi with kalua wild pig rice pilaf and crisp Kula vegetables. It was stunning in every way from being visually attractive to being the best piece of fish I ever had. In addition the menu told me that the fishing vessel “Sea Pearl” caught it that morning. Some entrees listed the name of the fisherman. That is as close to catching it yourself as you can get. Another of the dining party had Ono and Mahimahi sautéed in Panang Curry and coconut milk With Mama’s mango chutney with Kula vegetables. She reported it was the best meal she had ever had and it looked good. My wife had Ahi Sashimi salad with Kula Mixed Greens and Maui onion. Again, it was reported as great beyond her most optimistic expectation. I did not have dessert. Instead I had Coffee. It was Kaanapali Hills Maui Moka grown by James (Kimo) Falconer on the slopes above Kaanapali, a nearby village, and custom roasted locally. I am almost ashamed to say it was wonderful, rich almost buttery coffee with low acidity but it was every one of those things. Was our meal expensive? Yes it was expensive but when you consider cost you also have to evaluate the value. Mama's Fish house is a great restaurant and a great value. I would go back in a minute and if you go to Maui you must go to Mama's Fish house. Make reservations, as I am not the only one that recognizes this prize in the Pacific. I would even suggest you go to Maui simply to dine at Mama's Fish House. For more information please go to: www.mamasfishhouse.com
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